Isla do Mel (“Honey Island”— also called “Whale Island” because of its unusual cetacean shape) is one of the single best things about living in the Brazilian state of Parana and one of the better-kept secrets of the Southern Brazilian coast.
Isla do Mel is tantalizingly close to the city of Curitiba: a 90-minute car ride gets you to the coastal city of Pontal do Sul, a quiet coastal town spun off of the municipality of Paranagua—a Portuguese town from the mid-16th century. Once in Pontal do Sul, you pay 35 reais ($7) to get a roundtrip ferry ticket to transport you to Honey Island. The trip is around 30 minutes- so 2 hours of travel from Curitiba gets you a laidback slice of paradise. With a sharp eye, you may see dolphins or flying fish frolicking in the waves.
Why “Honey Island” is called that is actually a source of great mystery- the name has existed in records since the mid-16th century, and the most obvious reasons have to do with the number of wild bees on the island- Honey Island is very full of, well, honey. But it may have to do with the German word for mill- mehl, as a flour mill existed on the island around the time of its naming, or perhaps even for the color of the natural water on the island- a mercury-tinted yellow the color of honeycomb. While the simplest and most obvious answer is the existence of wild bees, the conjecture itself is a fun bit of history.
And when I say laidback, I mean really, really chill. After getting off the ferry and walking down the dock, laden with all your island trappings and belongings, you notice just how quiet the island is. Isla do Mel is a car-free paradise, with over ten sq. miles of land, only three-quarters of a mile are allowed for human use- the rest is a designated ecological preserve site, a pristine Mata Atlantica jungle with trails for exploring and beaches for relaxing. There are two main “villages” on the Island- Nova Brasilia and Encantadas. Encantadas is the site of one of the larger beaches, so it is a more bustling hive of activity by the island’s standards- whereas I prefer to stay near Brasilia and have an even quieter experience.
There is evidence of shell-collecting humans (the Sambaqui) inhabiting the island as far back as 8,000 years ago- the “people of the shells” left mounds of calcium carbonate all around the coastal areas, almost as if urging archaeologists to get some sun. For the more recently-minded, however, there are pousadas, hostels, and the odd AirBnB for rent— so finding even last-minute accommodation isn’t a problem. This long, thin island (only 30 meters wide at its isthmus), is known for its dozen-or-so pristine beaches and two fascinating man-made pieces of architecture.
The first turismo attraction on Honey Island is the “Farol das Conchas”- the Seashell Lighthouse. Built around the time of the US Civil War, the lighthouse was commissioned by Brazilian Emperor Dom Pedro II (Brazil was once an empire, yo!) and built by the Scots (who cleaned house with South American architectural sales in the 19th century, apparently). The Farol das Conchas is visible virtually from any part of the island and is a great landmark for the directionally-challenged.
The other notable architecture on the island is the “Fortaleza de Nossa Senhora dos Prazeres de Paranaguá”- “Fortaleza” for the more succinct- a cultural heritage site and Mel’s own military installation, created to protect Paranaguá- and all the gold, wood, and slaves that entailed- from the plundering corsairs of the Spanish. The fort predates the American war for Independence, commissioned by Portuguese Emperor José I and placed strategically on the island- a sand bar in the bay forced ships close to land- and within range of the Portuguese cannons- at this location.
Later on, the fort was employed against the British- who (rightly) accused the Brazilians of slave trafficking in the 1850’s and even later still the fort was captured by Federalistas during Brazil’s civil war at the end of the 19th century. The fort was decommissioned following World War II, and considering all of the events that took place here, it’s no wonder that it has retained a culturally historic designation.
Getting to the fort is a small but enjoyable hike from Encantadas or Brasilia, whereby one can choose to take (the often soggy) trails or walk beachside the 4km distance. Another option is to take a boat from Encantadas to the fort- but then you would miss all the “Caracaras” (laughing falcons) “o tuim” and “o cuiu cuiu” (parakeets and green parrots), small vermillion hummingbirds, cormorants, lizards, and all the other biodiversity this glorious island has to offer.
Other than hikes, biodiversity, and marveling at the history of man-made structures, the island has loads of dining options as well- Moqueca is shrimp and/or fish stew with tomatoes, onions, garlic, lime, and coriander. Originally from the Angolan region, it was brought to Brazil by the Portuguese and is a fixture of seaside Brazilian cuisine (fear not, veggie-heads: a version sans-carne, made from plantains, is also quite delicious).
Notable restaurants on the island are (in my opinion): Mar e Sol (literally “sea and sun”- the best moqueca on the island), Astral da Ilha, and Grajagan (make no mistake- the dadinho- a fried cube of tapioca, sometimes served with grilled cheese and/or shrimp- is one of god’s greatest creations, aided by a pristine aquamarine view that most restaurants on the island boast.
Beaches, grottos, coves, caves, jungle, food, and wildlife are all wonderful, but one of the greatest pleasures of Isla do Mel is sitting in a hammock (they come standard at every establishment) while reading a book and listening to the rainfall. You may find yourself disappointed by the turn of the weather- but that is actually one of the purest and most cathartic experiences on the island- the gentle raindrops falling on an afternoon. Kick back, and enjoy yourself.
Isla Do Mel
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Lovely words and lovely photos. Thanks for sharing the beautiful experience.